The Tryfan has quite a few scrambling routes, as documented below. All fantastic, with great views and some scary bits to keep you concentrating!
Bastow Buttress Variant
A relatively short but extremely worthwhile scramble on the east face of Tryfan, combining tricky moves and fantastic exposure on a route where escape is always an option and topping out leaves you with the best of the North Ridge as a bonus. I would not agree with Ashton’s verdict on the route conditions.
Though there is a lack of traffic the route is not as lichenous as suggested. Only in the upper sections, notably on the shadier sides of obstacles, does lichen and moss become an issue, and then not a considerable one. On a dry day the rock is as sound as most on Tryfan, and then any lichen is an advantage! From Heather Terrace locate Bastow Gully, the first on the east face, deep and narrow and floored with large stones. Head up the gully for 10m or so to a slanting break on the right. A toe-jam on the right wall helps overcome the 1st chockstone and from there continue to a narrow break, using this and another to traverse the face with superb exposure to gain a heather ledge on the ridge crest.
Alternately these initial difficulties can be avoided by taking a second break from a few metres further up the gully and join the route above the first rise. Throughout the route all the main difficulties can be avoided with easier scrambling, usually on the right, and at various points escape back into the gully is possible. Short obstacles and some heather-bashing leads on to the next major obstacle. A rib on the left is too hard and the central blocky heather runnel too easy, so just like Goldilocks take the option that’s just right and ascend the ridge on the right via a diagonal break to a ledge on the crest. Continue up the rib, slightly on the left for the best option before aiming left over heather and boulders to gain the left-hand rib above it’s harder section where possible.
This section is daunting as it’s narrow and directly overlooks Bastow Gully. Take it with confidence on narrow holds and soon the crest starts to widen. Continue up the rib keeping as close to the crest as possible, overcoming numerous difficulties. Towards the top an obvious escape into Bastow Gully can be made as it peters out. If still following the route a difficult direct line can push you further round to the right behind the rib for more accommodating options. However these are still tricky and involve the most intricate moves of the route.
A tight and damp corner, with an overhanging boulder on the left leads to another slightly easier one before returning to the crest. From here continue up more easily and freely until you reach the large platform below the Nose on the North Ridge.
Milestone Buttress Traverse
It’s a very short walk from the first to the second & if you’re roped up, you can just coil the rope and move together. Confident climbers may do them unroped, but I’d strongly advise doing them roped up and in pitches. Both involve some Diff climbing moves.
Milestone Buttress Traverse (Milestone Approach) Start at the gate in the lay-by just on the west side of Tryfan’s north ridge. Take the steps and path as if heading for the north ridge. This follows a large dry stone wall, taking you towards the Milestone Buttress, which is a few hundred metres up directly ahead. Take either of the stiles over the wall and clamber over large boulders towards the west-facing & most popular part of the buttress for rock climbers.
Walk up steeply until you reach the far top right corner of the buttress (from here, the continuing loose path takes you up to Milestone Gully just above). The scramble starts up the smooth and polished slabs (the first pitch of the Pulpit climb). These can also be avoided on the right, but if you feel inclined to avoid them, it’s probably better not to continue! Move left under the lowest part of the Pulpit itself (it’s a sort of triple-decker pulpit – three huge boulders resting on each other) and belay.
Continue on a rising traverse left, surmounting a huge exposed flake by using the top edge for handholds (and sling protection). Anchor on the ledge above (this is part of the Rowan Tree route). Ahead, still going in the general direction of the traverse, is a difficult looking step, a short but vertical and rather hold-less wall. The key is to swing boldly around the left edge of this (very exposed) where adequate hand and foot-holds will be found. Continue traversing onto the very large ledge / alcove above.
To the left is a smooth and difficult chimney (final pitch of Direct Route). To the right is an easy chimney with spikes – ascend this and the short wall directly ahead to finish the scramble.
North Ridge
This route is the most popular in the Glyder range, and one of the finest low grade scrambles in Wales.
The large spiky crest of the mountain rises from the valley floor; and is visible for miles around.
When looking up at this impressive peak, it looks like a perilous knife edge, when in fact it is more of a rounded shoulder.None the less it offers great views and is always interesting.
Approach: along the A5; there is plentiful parking in laybys on either side of the road, alternitively carry on and park next to the Idwal Cottage YHA. Start next to the stone wall on a small track leading up towards Milestone buttress, it moves off left cutting through a boulder field and steep grassed terraces.
Once you have overcome this, and onto the ridge proper; you aquire brilliant views of the surrounding valleys.You can take any line left or right of the ridge; however to the left lies the prominent and much photographed rock feature the Cannon.
The next part of the sramble is the most exciting.Up ahead lies a pinnacle of rock that can be missed out by trending left, however it is most exciting to ascend the obstacle straight on. Once this is surmounted it leaves a descent into the notch, with gullys dropping away either side.
There is a gully straight ahead that leads out of the depression and onto boulders that lead to the main summit.This is recognisable by large twin stones: Adam and Eve. The true summit is gained by jumping from one onto the other, not for the fainhearted!!
The descent off of the continues down over the south peak and lies on the east side of the ridge. It cuts down the mountain as an easy path until reaching a col and a stone wall. You can go over the wall and trend eastwards until reaching the Heather terrace route, which follows the mountain across its East face.
Alternatively once at the col turn right and follow a steady path past Lyn Idwal and down to the youth hostel. Duration: In terms of time, It took us around 3 hours at a reasonable pace. Hazards: The rock is in places very polished, so great care should be taken strong winds and heavy rain, especially when on the upper pinnacles of the ridge.
We have the full route of the North Ridge documented here.
Two other routes are mentioned below, however we really need some more information on them. If you know them well, please email us your account to [email protected]
Little & North Gullies (Central Buttress) Tryfan
This is a great scramble; the easiest on Tryfan’s East Face.
It can be used as an ascent or descent but route finding is more complex when coming down. It’s also worthwhile after a bout of heavy rain.
Milestone Continuation
From the top of the Milestone Traverse, walk diagonally right across heather and boulders towards the obvious small buttress.
The lower part is a slab with a dog-leg crack running up the left side
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