Pinnacle Ridge Scramble

on Craig y Bera

Grade: Diff + Grade 3

Distance: 130m of ascent

Time: 3 hrs for ascent

Start: Rhyd-Ddu (maps link)

If you enjoyed Sentries Ridge on Craig y Bera (see e.g. ‘Scrambles in Snowdonia’ by Steve Ashton) and don’t mind very loose rock (!) then you will certainly enjoy this route.

This route is somewhat harder than Sentries but still accessible to scramblers with rock-climbing experience. The first two pitches (to the top of the first pinnacle) are of Diff rock-climbing standard but thereafter the grade gradually eases to a final walk to the top of the main pinnacle.

The route can be continued up a second ridge at Grade 1/2 to give a fine expedition just beyond the boundary of scrambling and climbing. Rope, climbing rack and slings are essential – the route should be pitched wherever necessary.

Protection can be found throughout the route however the dubious quality of the rock means multiple placements are strongly advised. To re-iterate: take great care with the rock – check all holds before placing weight on them!

The Approach

Park at Rhyd Ddu. From the lay-bys on the B4418 at SH568528 walk back towards Rhyd Ddu and then turn left up a forestry track in a northerly direction. Follow this for 1 km to where a path heads left up the hillside to a stile on the ridge at SH561540. Follow the ridge path up to the top of the forest at SH552543 and then follow a faint path contouring around the hillside. This path eventually crosses a stile and then a scree shoot below the crags. Follow it to the base of Pinnacle Ridge at SH545540.

The Ascent

Start just left of the foot of the ridge. The first pitch traverses steep broken ground up and right (facing the crag) before traversing back left to a large ledge (Diff). Belay.

The second pitch is the crux (Diff).Move up to a second large ledge and then traverse to its far right-hand end, around a bulge. Above is a steep corner overlooking the gully with a wide crack in the left-hand wall (see diagram). Climb the corner by its right-hand wall and then step left under an overhang into the top of the wide crack. Mantelshelf/thrutch onto the top of the pedestal on the left. Rig some protection in the crack above (large wire or small Friend) and then climb up in an exposed position using good foot-holds on the wall and hand-holds on its top. Finish easily on the top of the pinnacle (belay).

Descend from the pinnacle, traverse right around a second small pinnacle and then climb the next rise using a groove to move onto its right-hand side overlooking the gully (Grade 3). Belay. Above the grade eases until a steep broken wall is reached. Climb this (Grade 3) and belay above. Thereafter Grade 1 scrambling / walking remains to the top of the main pinnacle.

Descend easily from the main pinnacle and climb over or avoid on the right the next two small pinnacles to a grassy col. From here descent is possible to the right down a scree gully. Alternatively continue up the broken ridge above (Grade 1) until a final steep 2m wall (Grade 2). Traverse the final knife-edge arête to a second grassy col. Descend from here down the scree gully on the right, or possibly continue up steep broken ground to the top of the crag.

Descent: descent down the scree gullies is technically easy (one simple 3m Grade 1 wall at the top) but the scree is very, very loose. Take care not to knock large blocks onto those below!

This walk was kindly contributed by one of our readers. If you have a route to contribute, please send the details to [email protected].