Glyder Fawr Scrambles

Four fantastically technical scrambles around the Glyder Fawr, perfect for the hardcore adventurers!

1. Bryant’s Gully
2. Cneifion Arete
3. Direct Approach to Seniors Ridge, Glyder Fawr
4. North West Face Route, Glyder Fawr

Direct Approach to Seniors Ridge, Glyder Fawr

Start at Ogwen Cottage and follow the path into Cwm Idwal.

Take the path to the left of the lake until you reach the Idwal Slabs, where the rock climbers gather.

The scramble is often used as a descent by climbers, and also takes a fair bit of drainage.

When combined with Seniors Ridge above it makes an excellent long climb to Glyder Fawr.

The route begins up the small slab to the far left (under the east wall of the main slabs) then continues upward.
Soon, a flat grassy area is reached.
Above this, the route climbs an obvious wet little gully then continues close under the left-bounding wall of the Idwal Slabs.

The next obstacle is a 2m chimney that looks easy but is somehow quite awkward.
Although there’s no danger of a fall, some thought is needed to overcome it. Beyond this, continue into the couloir below the awesome Suicide Wall.

The next section is the crucial part. The correct breach of the cliff must be located. It is quite obvious however; a polished line rising up and rightwards in an exposed position (this is also the descent route for climbers coming off the Idwal Slabs). It’s reasonably short, but a steady hand is required.

At the top, follow grooves right to a superb position overlooking Cwm Idwal. The final section is perhaps the most enjoyable. The ridge is followed upwards on whichever line suits you. The scrambling consists of short, steep walls interspersed with flat, boggy areas giving a sense of security. Some of the moves are tricky but there’s little exposure.

A final steep wall (which can be avoided) with a crack/groove up the middle marks the end of the route and the start of Seniors Ridge. Either follow the ridge up, or move left into Cwm Cneifion.

North West Face Route, Glyder Fawr

This is the easiest of the three scrambles that ascend Glyder Fawr from Cwm Idwal.

The short walk in is from Ogwen Cottage, taking the path to the left of the lake until you reach the Idwal Slabs. High up on the cliffs is a large horizontal band of quartz.

The scramble crosses this in its final section. Carry on past the main cliff and past the dark gully of the Idwal Staircase until by the stream flowing down into the lake.
Here the buttress is split by a runnel of heather. Ascend the runnel with an impressive drop to the right. After some distance a gully is reached. This is followed a few metres to reach the top of the first section.

The next objective is a small rock buttress that stands alone to the right. This can be bypassed but offers a few entertaining tricky moves.

After this, walk across the slope aiming for the buttress to the right of a couloir. Scramble up on steep rock, which is supplied with excllent holds. A choice of line and difficulty are available. As height is gained aim slightly right to step out onto the large quartz ledge seen from below. Walk across this ledge. Although safe, the ledge is slanted left toward a large drop making it very interesting.

Beyond the ledge, scramble diagonally left along terraces and up rock steps.

The guidebook suggests this part has tricky route finding, but in good visibility it is vastly enjoyable. Soon, the route ends against Seniors Ridge which can be followed to the summit.