An excellent grade 3 scramble in Snowdonia, with an optional climbers start on the Parson’s Nose to extend it to 3S!
The Clogwyn y Person Arete is a quiet route up Snowden which avoids the crowds until you reach Crib y Ddysgl.
It takes you into a fairly unfrequented cwm then via an exciting Arête past basalt columns to the top of Garnedd Ugain. Alternatively you can do the Red Ridge (Crib Goch) in “reverse” and complete the Cwm Uchaf horseshoe, or skip both and drop down directly to Cwm Uchaf.
Grade – Grade 3*** (3S*** with Parson’s Nose)
Parking: Lay by near SH625568 or Cromlech Boulders (Google Maps)
Route Map
Approach
Park at SH625568 (Parking at GPS: 53.0907, -4.0533) or 200m Eastwards at the Cromlech Boulders. In summer arrive early as this is a well frequented area. From the first car park hop over the wall at its Eastern end and hug the left side of the stone walls surrounding Ynys Ettws (the climbing club hut) and Blaen-y-Nant Farmhouse until you reach the stream. A path on its opposite bank heads SW into the Cwm. If the Afon Peris is up you can follow the road for 340m West on a narrow path on its North side to the second bridge on the left (GPS: 53.092361, -4.058106) picking up the path just West of Blaen-y-Nant.
Climb the path beside the stream to some low crags that hide Llyn Glas above. Follow the path through these and top out on glacier smoothed boulders. The Arête now dominates your view ahead. Walk left to the South East end where a solid left hand lump of rock is separated from the more broken cliffs of the Arête by a vertical gulley (See photo). This rock lump is the Parson’s Nose itself, and you can see why.
Note that climbers can be found in the area, so don’t just follow the first red T-shirt you see!
Normal Route Gully Start (grade 3***)
Start at the bottom of the gully (see image above) and climb predominantly on its right to the jammed boulder and gain its flatish top.
The Parson’s Nose Scramble (optional 3S*** start to the arete)
Climbers with a 20m rope and a tape or two may want to tackle the clean SW Parson’s Nose rock. Reputedly it’s a Diff grade climb; I found it verging on V.Diff.
Start at the Nose’s lowest SW point and scramble up to the steepening wall and some horizontal quartz bands, then rock climb the central dent/weakness on good(ish) holds to the top.
A tricky 3m vertical drop now awaits to the jammed boulder at the top of the gulley which is best tackled on the right. This start is so short as to be not worth the faff of roping up and carrying harnesses etc.
The Clogwyn y Person Arete Scramble
From the jammed boulder take the centre of the arête up a weakness trending right onto a ledge. A short way along the ledge a leftwards diagonal move leads to the next ledge. Follow the worn rock rightwards then up and left to regain the arête. A vertical wall blocks your path, skirt this on its right (N) into a corner riven by vertical cracks on its left wall and guarded by spikes of rock about 1m high. This is the crux of the route.
The crux is easier than it looks, but a long tape or piece of rope is advisable. Climb up into the corner and face it like a dunce. Using magical swear words gain a foothold on the spike of rock that thrusts out below the big deep crack on your left, then foot jam the big deep crack with your left foot. Now you can place a boot in a hidden hold on your right in the corner crack itself where it widens. Finally grunt porcine style to easier ground using the juggy handholds now in reach.
The rest of the route is fairly straight forward with various alternatives. Stay to the crest of the ridge and avoid rightwards wanderings as this leads to steeper climbing territory. A little route finding will pay off when difficulties present.
Descent Options
Once you reach Crib Y Ddysgl itself you can head up Snowden or do one of the following routes.
Direct Descent to Cwm Uchaf (Upper Cwm)
Descend Eastwards down to Bwlch Coch, the lowest point between Crib y Ddysgl and Crib Goch. Head North back into Cwm Uchaf and Cwm Glas via a path down the left of the red screes of Crib Goch.
DON’T return the way you came and walk past Llyn Glas and the Parson’s Nose which requires you to head left and Westwards (unless you fancy a swim). Instead stay in the Upper Cwm and head due north where the Upper Cwm’s own stream drops over the sharp edge. Follow the stream down to where it meets the lower Cwm Glas Mawr and the path.
Cwm Uchaf Horseshoe via Crib Goch North Ridge
Its unusual to take on Crib Goch in the West to East direction, and this is a perfect opportunity. The Crib is described elsewhere so here’s a few pointers for the difference in reverse.
From Bwlch Coch climb to the highest point of the first pinnacle. Amongst the summit blocks the polish tan brown rock gives a clue to your way forwards; an angled break leads down North Eastwards between the vertical rock to a ledge that runs off to your right. Bum shuffle down to the ledge and then wander rightwards to easier ground.
The next two pinnacles can be scrambled with interest, though meeting others coming the other way can necessitate negotiations often of an international nature. Both pinnacles can be avoided with easy scrambling on their right (South) side.
When you reach the crest proper stay on its right side using the ridge top as your hand rail. Some will wander nonchalantly along the crest, but a slip over to the North side has dire consequences. At its end a wide area marks the top of Crib Goch from where you can look East to Pen Y Pass.
The usual route descends due East down rugged terrain to the Pyg Track.
Instead take the narrow but short ridge that heads due North. A tricky start leads to easier ground and a path down the red scree at the ridge’s end to Cwm Uchaf. As mentioned above unless you feel like a swim don’t cross the Upper Cwm’s own stream but follow it to the sharp edge and on down into Cwm Glas Mawr.
Recommended Guidebook & Map
The best guidebook for this route is the excellent Scrambles in Snowdonia Cicerone book by Steve Ashton, available on Amazon in paperback or ebook here.
The best map for this scrambling route is the OL17 Ordnance Survey Map – Snowdon / YR WYDDFA, which is available on Amazon here.
Recommended Scrambling Guide: (coming soon)
Recommended Accommodation: YHA Snowdon Pen-y-Pass
You can stay right at the foot of Snowdon, at the YHA Snowdon Pen-y-Pass. See the cheapest rates on Booking.com here.
Route Info
| Distance | 4/5.5 km |
| Elevation | 800m +/- |
| Duration | 3 - 4 hours |
| Grade | 3*** / 3S*** |
| Transport | Car - Lay Bys (Llanberis Pass) |
Navigation
| Guidebook | Best Book |
| Maps | Best Map |
| Guided Tours | Guides |
| Accommodation | Where To Stay? |
| Contributor | Who Contributed? |
Route Contributed by Steve, from Outdoor Duo
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(The first image is (c) Howie collection.)
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