This route describes how to traverse Sgurr Thearlaich from the south to the north and is useful for those undertaking a round of Coire Lagan or doing a traverse of the main Cuillin Ridge.
The peak itself is bounded on both sides by very steep cliffs so careful route finding is required at all times (unless you have a parachute!).
Difficulty: UK Grade Mod
Recommended Gear: 50 m single rope (and some tat to back up the in-situ abseil if required)
Start at the top of the Great Stone Shoot in Bealach between Sgurr Alasdair and Sgurr Thearlaich.
The Scramble
1 – (NG 45028 20833) From the Bealach descend for about 50-100 m to the south east (on the opposite side of the Bealach from the GSS) until a small slab and chimney is reached that is bounded on its right by a small corner.
This is the easiest way to breach the rock barrier of Sgurr Thearlaichs southern wall out of the Bealach.
Climb/Scramble up the slab passing several large ledges (Moderate) to the main ridge crest. From here continue along the airy crest to the well positioned summit cairn.
2 – (NG 45056 20836) From the summit head north down the crest, which gradually becomes more open and broad. Descend a minor steepening after a few hundred meters on the right before reaching a sudden drop, bounded on the left by a slight gully with a abseil block at the top (and in-situ lower-off).
3 – (NG 45041 21010) Abseil from the block down the steep rib on the courisk side for ~25 m (opposite side from the gully – this can be abseiled but is further and very loose).
Continue scrambling down until the Bealach is reached. From here either continue around the side of Sgurr MhicChoinnich using Collie’s Ledge (Grade 2) on the Coire Lagan side or go direct via the Kings Chimney (VDiff).
Recommended Guidebook & Map
The best guidebook for this route is found in the SMC Skye Scrambles Book, which is available via Amazon on Paperback here.
The best map for this route is the Ordnance Survey Landranger 32 South Skye & Cuillin Hills Map, available on Amazon here.
Recommended Scrambling Guide: (coming soon)
Recommended Accommodation
You can find good value accommodation for all levels on the Isle of Skye at Booking.com here.
Route Info
| Grade | MOD |
Navigation
| Guidebook | Best Book |
| Maps | Best Map |
| Guided Tours | Guides |
| Accommodation | Where To Stay? |
| Contributor | Who Contributed? |
Route Contributed by: Sam Wainwright
“I live for everything outdoors and to me a bad day in the hills still beats a good day in the office.”
Sam regularly publishes route blogs on his website Wainright Climbing here.
This route was created by Sam Wainwright and donated to the UK Scrambles website through our contributor program.
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