Cairngorms

Here is one easy route, and one very difficult route that’s basically rock climbing. All situated in the Cairngorms, Scotland.

1. Stuic , Lochnager (Grade 1)
2. Afterthought Arete – Stag Rocks (Grade 4)

Stuic , Lochnager

A straight forward grade 1 scramble in the summer months which gives a scenic and quiet route up onto the ridge between Lochnagar and Cairn an t-Saigairt Mor.

Its quite a long haul from the A93 Braemar road over some pathless heather moorland, but there is an excellent approach through the Ballochbuie forest (one of the best bits of the old caledonian forest).

From the Sandy Loch head for the base of ridge. The route looks quite fierce from below but is a straightforward grassy scramble for competent scramblers over large granite boulders and steps on the crest of the ridge.

You can make the route a bit more difficult if you like by seeking out harder lines. The route ends on the flat ridge linking the two munros.

The route is suitable as a descent route for confident scramblers.

Afterthought Arete – Stag Rocks

Left hand arete of stag rocks, on the north side of the Loch Avon basin.

Simply start at the bottom of the arete and follow the left edge of the crag to the top. Low down and near the top the route is open to some variation, but it forms a well defined arete in the middle.

Graded moderate climbing standard in the climbing guidebook to the area. it is also mentioned in the classic Scottish scrambles guidebook but doesn’t get a full review. Its a shame because it is a great route.

I would rate this at the top end of scrambling for those competent on rock and who know how to use a rope and protection techniques properly.