Whitebeam Gully

Whitebeam Gully. GR SS 77458 50124
Grade. 4 . Grade 2 from the top of the gully to the footpath.
Exit contour. 110m, the path is at the 160m contour.
Length. 525ft. 160m. + further 225ft. 68m to path. Total = 750ft. 228m.
Av angle. 43 degrees.

This is a very remote location. If walking in from the A39 allow for a round trip of 7hrs.

Whitebeam Gully was created in recent years by a massive landslide which led to the diversion of The Coastpath. There is a trickle of water down the line which probably caused the landslide, uncovering the large headwall / slab 500ft above, which is visible from the beach.
The gully is an entertaining ascent. It is not normally used as a descent as the routes down to Sir Roberts Chair and the descent from The Eddie Giggs memorial bench are far easier providing the tide has ebbed below half its tidal range. Do not attempt to reach the foot of the gully on an incoming tide.

Total ascent 750ft. 228m.

• 150ft. 46m. Climb the loose slope. If you are lucky water will have cut a shallow groove exposing a line up to the first rock step. Take care with large rocks perched in the shallow groove. The initial vertical height of the step is about 10ft and is usually damp and awkward. A good nut placement and handhold can be found high up in the top of the corner, but the placement may have to be cleaned of small stones before it can be used.
• 75ft. 23m. Climb the step with difficulty to gain easier rock. Bear left onto the grass slope towards gorse bushes. Belay to stake and bushes above.
• 150ft. 46m. Move back into the gully, follow it to the second and larger rock step. Protection in the undercut crack.
• 50ft. 15m. This step is convex and is much higher than it appears. During summer when dry it can be soloed by a competent climber on large but rounded holds. When its damp or covered in a film of water its a nightmare. The availiable protection is far too low to protect the leader. The use of an axe on any nearby patches of turf is helpful. The lack of protection makes this step H. Severe.
• Climb up left until it is possible to move back right on a large ledge 5ft above the floor of the gully.
• Take the central crack line placing a large nut in the main handjam come foothold.(10 / 11 Hex) Climb on rounded and sloping holds to locate the boulder belay in the grass gully to the left. There is also a large crack in the suspect rock to the right. If the ascent involves a large party it may be best to do the next pitch and secure the rope then return to bring the remainder up the step.
• 105ft. 32m. Move out right to gain the easy angled slab below the headwall. Here you will find two horizontal cracks, one above the other that will take No 1 nuts. Leave the slab and continue up the shale slope with the headwall immediately to your right. Do not be tempted to venture out onto the wall, the holds are not secure. A deer track crosses the gully providing a route up onto the ridge above the headwall. 15ft above the track is a large boulder protruding from the east side of the ridge. Here you will find a stake belay for the routes on the headwall.
• 225ft. 69m. Move right (west) following the track out onto the ridge. Follow the ridge up with ease until you reach a spacious level fern filled area under a steep heather bank.
• To locate the coastpath exit from under the bank move to the top right (west) side. The slightly rising line of a disused path is marked by a couple of posts here and there. The main path is 150m west.